100 years after...
SNIPPETS

Some snap-shots from Russia almost 100 years after the Russian Revolution...

 

© Chris Dematté.Fine Art Photography _ www.chrisdematte.com

Oldtimer Museum
STRANDED FOREVER

Here is a story I did for a big German language Oldtimer website...

www.zwischengas.com

Random portraits
BACK IN THE USSR

Moscow, April 2016. It seems that for some people the time is standing still...

Work in Progress

PROJECT "FRONTLINE"

A few weeks ago I started with my new project called "Frontline". The background of this project is the WW2 Battle of Moscow, which took place  (according to official history) from Sept. 30, 1941 to April 2, 1942. Today it is seen as the largest battle between two armies of all time. Combining the totals for both sides, German an Soviet, approximately seven million troops were involved in some portion of this battle. Of this seven millions, 2.5 millions were killed, taken prisoners, missing or wounded bad enough to require hospitalization, 1.9 millions of them on the Soviet side. At some points the German Army reached the outskirts of Moscow but was stopped about 25 km from the Kremlin, today a car drive of about 20 minutes (if there is no traffic). The Battle of Moscow marked the first time Hitler's armies failed to triumph with their Blitzkrieg tactics and the German army never completly recovered from that defeat which is seen by many contemporary historians as the ultimate turning point of WW2.

Along the frontline of this battle there are today a lot of memorials and monuments remembering the heroic fight of the Red Army to stop the Fasiscts. With my project I want to document some of them. Seeing photography as a meaning of expression of one's feelings I am planing to "manipulate" my pictures in a way that they express the emotions I had while making the pictures. Here are first test to try out how to achieve this...

 "Alley of the Heros", Ruza

Near Ruza

Near Ruza 

Near Mozaishk

Near Mozaishk 

Monument to the "Sibirian Defenders of Moscow", Snegiri

The "Stop Line" at Snegiri

Monument to the "Defenders of Moscow's Sky" , near Moshaisk

The "Panfilov Warriors", Nelidovo

Monument to Zoya  (Zoe) Kosmodemyanskay, Dorokhovo

Meanwhile (not just yet) in Russia 

WHEN SOMEBODY IS DOING A JOURNEY... 

...then he has a lot to tell“, as the proverb is saying. But there are some travel experiences I can well live without ...

Actually, this flight to Moscow should already has to be routine. In the last two years I have entered and left Russia for approximately 20 times without any problems. I had become acquainted all three Moscow airports and the different entry procedures. I was familiar with the visa requirements and I had never had any problems. The only variety was in the different waiting periods at the passport control. At Domodedovo Airport it took always very long. Unfortunately, this is exactly the airport where Austrian Airlines is flying to. But somehow one has to consume the accumulated air miles. Therefore my flight on 30 June 2015 was a fairly routine matter. Or so I thought…

Since March 2014 I am married and my wife is a Russian citizen. We both like Russia. That’s wonderful country with amazing places and we did not visited all of them yet. So as I have most of my business anyway in Russia that time, we have decided to apply for a residence permit for me. After countless appointments with diverse authorities, after submitting a vast amount of documents and various tests (such as lung x-ray and AIDS test) I got after six months my (temporary) living permit. But this living permission has to be stamped into my passport too. But before this could be done I had to leave Russia again, because in accordance with (normal) visa terms I was not allowed to stay there longer 90 days within 180 days. My wife applied for invitation and we waited for another two months. The fact that in the invitation my birth country was given as Australia instead of Austria didn’t dampen my spirit. And it was corrected amazingly fast. Got a private visit visa, went back, finally got this magic stamp at the migration service office, in another office my registration. So, after about eight month waiting time I got now more or less the same status as a Russian citizen, with (almost) all rights and obligations. So I actually thought, and this was also the information provided by the issuing authority…

Seen in this light this flight was no routine. i After all it was the first time that I would enter with my newly acquired living permit. So, in order to be on the safe side, I decided to read up once again on the entry conditions. Do I really need no visa? I called to the Consulate General of the Russian Embassy in Vienna. After I had described the situation to the officer (and after she had held consultation with the Consul General) the information: No, I don’t need any additional visa. Good. But in order to be on an even safer side, and not relying on a telephonic information I went to the Visa Handling Services, a branch of the Russian embassy, in person. After presenting all documents and the explanation of the situation there as well again I got this information: No, no visa is required. So maybe really only routine…

So I flew on June 30 from Vienna to Moscow. My time frame was quite tight, I was simultaneously working on the creation of two exhibitions - one that will be opening at end of July in Italy (ironically an exhibition about Russia) and one in Moscow, whose opening was scheduled for July 13. The flight landed at 13:45 local time in Domodedovo, right on time. The usual long queue in front of the passport control. But after 20 minutes it was my turn. The border guard scanned my passport, print out the form which you get at every entry (and which is required when leaving the country again), passed it over to me for signing, took a last look on the computer screen - and hesitated. Took the phone receiver, made a short phone call and told me that i have to wait. After some time, another officer appeared, took my passport and ordered me to follow him. Ok, so much about the routine…

I'm escorted to an office and handed over to the next official. He is thumbing through my passport for several times, is consulting various folders, is intently staring into the computer, is consulting further officials. And I've still no information on what's going on. And after about one hour he gave me the information that there was a problem because I had no visa. Well, that should be easily clarified. I am telling him about the information of the consulate in Vienna that with a living permission I don’t need a visa. But as it seems that my knowledge of the Russian language is not good enough (as are his English skills) I call my wife and pass on the phone to the officials. Well. Now everything should be well clarified. Or so one should believe. But somehow the impression arises to me that the officials do not know exactly how to handle this, what to do with me. Another officer (with lots of stars on the epaulettes) is consulted. And is disappearing with my passport to another office. Slowly the situation is becoming a little bit Kafkaesque…

After about another hour of waiting time (it is now around 16:00) I'm escorted to another office and handed over to the next official. This one is starting to fill in a reams of forms, to my already slightly annoyed ask what was going on I do not get answers. Instead she is asking a lot of questions, e.g. about my education, my employer (which I do not have as a freelance artist, leading to some confusion and on the document ultimately to "without employment"), where and when I had done my military service (the relevance of my military service in 1979 eludes my knowledge). But once again it doesn’t work out because of the language barriers. Someone from the Lufthansa office is called as an interpreter. The lady, however, is of little help. And then there is also an official of the Russian Foreign Ministry now on site. Victoria, my wife, is probably setting heaven and hell into motion. At least I learn for the first time in more details what they are accusing me of: Trying to enter Russia without a valid visa. 

After I was outlining the situation from my perspective the Foreign Ministry official (who is holding, as it turns out later, the rank of consul general at the airport), he explains to me that there is probably a misinformation by the Russian Embassy in Austria. And he admits that an error has happened, is apologizing. He would give me right now and there an entry visa, but unfortunately, unfortunately, this would not be accepted by the Border Police. Well, fine.  Did I maybe land in a inter-ministerial power struggle (visa matters are settled at the Foreign Office, the Border Police is part of the secret service FSB). What next? I would probably be sent back to Austria. How, when, all that remains open. The Lady of the Lufthansa told me I need to take care and pay for the return ticket by yourself (but this is an „information" I know do be definitely wrong, because at the rejection at the border the airline with which you came must also provide the return transport with the next available flight). The catch here is that the border authorities do not let myself (or my wife) book a return flight. Instead, new forms and documents are prepared and presented to me for signature. A four-page document in Russian. And I have sign it without reading it, no explanations are given what it is about. The lady from Lufthansa has since disappeared. It is 17:30, end off her duty shift…

I refuse to sign the document. The officer is shrugging, tearing it up discards it. Was probably not so important. I have to continue to wait outside the office. From the border guards, who are deciding my further "destiny", I get no information at all. Then, around 18:00, a further official, this time with my passport, is coming, I to follow him. Hooray, something is going on! We are cross-cross various airport buildings. Where to - to the transit area where I have to wait for my flight the next day? To another office? Perhaps at the end the consul was successful and I got a visa, I am allowed to enter, to go to my wife…

I am sent into a room. Clack. The door is falling into the lock behind me, is locked twice. I look around. A room with about 15 sqm. Thick iron bars at the window. Glaring fluorescent lighting. Cowering, sitting, laying on the few metal chairs 18 men of different ethnicities, some more are lying on the ground, sleeping. Slowly it begins to dawn on me: I probably have landed in a kind of "pre-deportation detention cell". Locked in . And completely left in the dark not knowing what I am actually accused or what they further are planned to do with me. Slight panicked I call to my wife and describe my situation. She gives me the emergency number of the Austrian Embassy in Moscow. To the very helpful, but somehow sounding quite worried embassy staff I describe my situation. That according to information from the Russian Embassy ​​I do not need a visa. That the consul on the spot would have issued one. That I had  not eaten or drunk since ten clock in the morning. That I was locked up here without any information. There is only one broken toilet, the sink faucet not working. The embassy staff promises to try to figure out what is actually going on and how to improve my situation. But as it is now is already 19:00 it could take a while. I look for a seat, and prepare for a longer waiting period. That this waiting time will span for further twelve hours I had no idea then…

To be locked up is a completely new experience for me. Some claustrophobic feelings are creeping into me. Around 21:30 clock then the first "official" release of the officials: I'm going to be returned the next day with the Austrian Airlines flight at 0630. No justification, nothing written. At 22:30 the recall of the Austrian Embassy. The only thing they can tell me is about my returning in the morning. Anywhere else they too only hit walls. So far so good (or, actually, bad). It will be a long night. No chance to get some sleep. Constantly new "prisoners" are brought to or collected from "our" cell (and all my attempts to engage the officials in any form of communication are ignored), the glaring neon light that burns in the eyes, the hard metal seats and the high noise level are preventing any attempt to sleep. Quite apart from the nervous tension. And time does not move on. The clock hand is like glued…

At 06:30 I am finally called and, wordlessly escorted by an official, led to the boarding gate. I have to enter the aircraft after all other passengers. And finally there I get back my passport, along with two rather whimsical documents. The first one is a fine over 2,000 rubles. And the second one seems to be the deportation decision. The first official document that I hold in my hands. And there, in the first line, is written that I will be "returned" to Tajikistan. Although  I always wanted to go to Dushanbe, at this moment I assured myself fast that it is  the Austrian Airlines flight to Vienna I was sitting in…

After 24 hours I'm back where I started. A routine trip? Not really ...

So now we are waiting again. I will go on monday to the consulate again and see if they had time enough to learn about Russian legislation. And my wife, who was visiting in the last days all related authorities, beginning with the Administration of the President and the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, asking the two main Russian questions: “Who is guilty? And what to do now?” is waiting for their reaction to understand if there was just a fault in the system, and that it really became better in Russia, as her government is telling on the TV on a daily base. Or it is her turn to try out if it is easy to be an Austrian… 

ART AND NATURE

Art objects and installations at Nikola-Lenivets, Russia.

Nikola-Lenivets is located 200 kilometers away from Moscow, in Kaluga region by the river Ugra. A part of the territory belongs to Ugra National Park, which is a UNESCO biosphere reserve.

Nikola-Lenivets is a modern project - the only place in Russia that presents landscape installations and land-art objects created by leading Russian and international artists, many of which have become iconic figures for modern art. 

Random Shots
GROUNDED

Found some old MIGs in a museum yard. I particularly like the textures. Don't think they will ever fly again...

Meanwhile in Russia
RANDOM PORTRAIT #2

At the Red Square. January 21, 2015. 

STILL MARCHING...

91 years ago, on January 21, 1924, Vladimir Ilyich Ulyanov, better known as Lenin, died. His ideas formed the largest part of the 20th century. And also his "Utopia" failed at the end in 1991 there are still many people who believe in this ideas. Today, on the anniversary of his death, there was (again, like in former Sowjet times) a long queue in front of his mausoleum on Moscow's Red Square.

Still marching...

The flag of the USSR at the Kremlin Wall. 2015.

The queue on Red Square. The sign is saying "Children of War"...

Entering the Mausoleum

Moscow, Red Square, January 21, 2105

AD ASTRA II

Space Oddity

Yuri Gagarin Monument, Moscow

Monument to the Conquest of Space, Moscow

Though I'm past one hundred thousand miles

I'm feeling very still

And I think my spaceship knows which way to go

Tell my wife I love her very much "she knows"

Ground Control to Major Tom

Your circuit's dead, there's something wrong

Can you hear me, Major Tom?

Can you hear me, Major Tom?

Can you hear me, Major Tom?

Can you "Here Am I floating round a tin can

Far above the Moon

Planet Earth is blue

And there's nothing I can do.

[David Bowie, Space Oddity]

AD ASTRA

Moscow

Fujifilm X-T1; XF 35mm F1.4R; ISO 400; f 5,6; 1/350

Meanwhile in Russia
THE LAUGHING GOAT

Some of the picts I did for the guy with the goats...

WINTER WONDERLAND

The last days of 2014 brought temperatures here in Moscow region of around -20°C so one had a lot of opportunities of doing this winter wonderland picture. 2015 started with temperatures of +2°C so at the moment all this was melting away. But the temperature forecast for next week is -25°C so I think I will have some more changes to get such pictures... 

Meanwhile in Russia
RANDOM PORTRAIT #1

Strolling through the heavily snowed-in Russian countryside on the last day of 2014 I encountered this guy. Seeing my camera he asked me to take some pictures of his animals. He is living in a small house together with eight goats, two black pigs, some cats and a lot of rabbits (he doesn't know anymore how many of them there are). Actually his animals have more living space then he. And he cares very much for them, constantly talking about them. Using all my rudimentary knowledge of the Russian language and his of the English one we had quite a long and interesting chat. At the end he offered to pay me 20 rubles for the pictures of his goats. I will give them to him for free... ;-)

WASTELAND II

Re-edited some pictures from the Karabasch series. Somehow black & white works much better (at least for me)... 

The mining town of Karabasch, situated about 1,800 km east of Moscow in the Ural Mountains, is one of the World's most polluted locations. A copper smelting plant is situated in the town since 1910, which is emitting extremely large amounts of pollution. 

Within 100 years, the factory has the surrounding area extended burned and covered with slag. Per year of operation, it encounters more than 180 tons of gas in the atmosphere, the back falls as acid rain in the local area back to earth. For decades, the soil in and around Karabasch is contaminated by high concentrations of highly toxic metals like lead, arsenic, nickel, cobalt, cadmium, copper and zinc, some of which exceed the maximum permitted limit for the two-to 150-fold. The iron content exceeds the norm by a factor of 500. In 1996 the town was officially recognized by the Russian government as a "ecological disaster zone", the UNESCO lists Karabasch as on of the most polluted locations on earth.